The visit of a cenote has become an absolute must-do on every trip to Mexico in the last few years, thanks to Instagram. Especially in Yucatán and its surroundings, the most popular tourist region of the country, there are thousands of these hidden underwater oases. Unfortunately, most of them are completely built for tourists and look more like a swimming pool than a natural underground pool. I will show you which cenotes are really worth a visit, because they are either unknown or absolutely unique, in the best case both.

What is a cenote?

Cenotes are a subterranean cave system from the Mayan era, which extends over hundreds of kilometers, mostly flooded by water. Often individual cenotes are still connected under water. Throughout the state of Yucatán, one finds countless of these natural swimming pools that are often recognizable through a big hole in the ground. Partly they are located in the middle of the city, partly very remote. Sometimes they are not even visible from above and you can only reach the completely subterranean cenote through a staircase at a depth of hundreds of meters.

These mystical lifelines of the Maya used to be used as drinking water reservoirs and often also as places of sacrifice.

Insider tip: The three cenotes of Cuzama

I was thrilled by three cenotes in Cuzama, very close to Mérida. Since these underwater caves are quite remote from any major city, we were the only visitors. It is also absolutely unique that three completely different cenotes are directly next to each other.

The first cenote on our way, is a kind of big cave, but we could walk into it quite normally. It is completely dark and the water is a few meters behind the cave entrance, without the well-known hole in the ceiling, so swimming here takes some effort.

In the second cenote you climb with a ladder into an unimpressive hole in the ground. Its size reminded me more of a manhole cover or a small fountain. After a few meters a water hole appears below you. Again, it takes a lot of effort to jump into the water without seeing what is underneath you. Because actually this cenote is just a black hole.

The third cenote is the only one that, thanks to the collapse of the ceiling, you can look into from above. A huge hole in the ground gives a view of the clear, turquoise water. Here you can swim to the opposite rock face with a little more self-confidence or just sit on the edge and let small fish nibble your feet.

Cuzama - How to get there

To get to the Cenotes of Cuzama, you first take the colectivo (or a normal bus, but it takes longer) from Mérida to Cuzama, which takes about an hour. In Cuzama you have to take a motor taxi a few meters from the bus station. At the beginning we were very convinced that we could walk the way, but then we had to realize that it is much too far. Since the motor taxi drivers know this too, they cost twice as much as the bus before. And this even though the journey takes less than half an hour. But they will do their best to entertain you during the trip and tell you about the history of Mayas and Cenotes in Yucatán. After half of the distance we had to exchange motor taxi for donkey carriages, because we only continued on rails. In a discarded railway wagon we went through the jungle, from one cenote to another.

Cenote Suytun: The Instagram Cenonte

This cenote is definitely one of the most magical places in Mexico. You have to get up really early though, because when the big coaches arrive in front of the entrance at around ten o'clock, the magic is over. So you should be there directly at nine o'clock, then you usually have the cenote all to yourself for an hour. That gives you time for a swim and some pictures in the most photogenic cenote of Mexico. Think about a tripod for your camera, because the cenote is completely underground and therefore very dark.

One small hole in the ground throws the sunrays directly onto a platform in the middle. Because of the darkness, the water here is very cold and the sounds of the bats as you swim through the black water will drive you back to shore quickly at times. In the end, however, even my one-year-old daughter dared to jump into this unique cenote.

Getting to Suytun

The Cenote is only about fifteen minutes from Valladolid and less than an hour from the major cities of the Riviera Maya. The entrance is signposted from the large car park. A steep, long staircase then leads you into the underground cenote.

Recommendation: Cenote Calavera

My absolute favorite cenote in Mexico, very close to Tulum. Apart from a big hole, which you can enter relatively comfortably with a ladder, there are also two more holes, through which the brave ones among you can plunge into the water almost three metres below. After overcoming my doubts at first, I could have spent hours jumping through the small opening again and again and then pulling myself up again on a rope. For even more fun (and great photos) there is also a swing embedded in the cenote.

Cenote Dos Ojos

Dos Ojos is a system of two interconnected cenotes that are completely underground except for a small hole in the ceiling. Long ropes hanging from the ceiling provide extra rocking fun. Since these cenotes are well known and popular with tourists, you should be one of the first to arrive in the morning so you don't feel like you are in an outdoor pool with hundreds of people.

How to get there

Due to its location between Tulum and Playa del Carmen, this cenote is the perfect tourist destination. From both places you need about twenty minutes by car. Also the surroundings are much more adapted to tourists than other cenotes. There are showers, changing rooms and life jackets.

Gran Cenote Tulum

Although this cenote, just outside Tulum, is one of the most famous cenotes in the area, it is still worth a visit. Especially for snorkeling and diving it offers a great opportunity, because there is a lot to discover under water. If you are the first visitor in the morning, you will find a real oasis of peace in the middle of the jungle.

Mexico Cenotes: Info

It is best to never swim in a cenote when you are still wearing sunscreen or insect repellent on your skin or take a good shower beforehand. Alternatively, you can also use a biodegradable sunscreen. The water quality of the cenotes, which is home to countless species of animals, suffers greatly from all kinds of chemicals added by sun protection. Since locals also drink the water, conventional sunscreen is now prohibited in Cenotes. By the way, the same applies to the beach sections of the Riviera Mayato protect coral reefs, turtles and fishes.

The best way to explore the different cenotes in Mexico is to rent a car. This is the only way you can leave really early in the morning and have the cenotes to yourself for a while.

The cenotes within the city, such as those in Valladolid, are not particularly recommended. While it's convenient to be able to walk to a cenote within two minutes from the city centre, these cenotes are often crowded, a little dirty and the water heated up, as they are often completely open at the top.