Chiapas, in the south of Mexico, has little in common with the Caribbean beaches in the east of the country, with the supermetropolis Mexico City or with the American looking cities in the north. The state is one of the poorest in the country. A large part of the indigenous population lives here. On the other hand it offers breathtaking landscapes and probably the most untouched nature in Mexico. I will show you all the sights of Chiapas and the perfect route through Mexico's beautiful south.
How do I get to Chiapas?
The first places to go in Chiapas, coming from the North, are San Cristóbal de las casas or Tuxtla Gutierrez. There is an airport in Tuxtla Gutierrez, but the 12-hour bus ride from Puebla is worth it. If you drive overnight, you will be in the rainforest in time for sunrise and can enjoy the great view for the rest of the trip.
Coming from Yucatan, you will probably start in Palenque. Since in Mexico you usually travel by bus and it is quite comfortable, you could just take a night bus from Cancún to Palenque.
Chiapas Sights
In short, you will see a lot of ruins, waterfalls and indigenous villages in Chiapas. San Cristóbal is also a beautiful colonial town with a great Zócalo (market place) where you can easily spend a few days. From here it is worth a trip to Tuxtla Gutierrez to the Canon del Sumidero, a canyon through which you can go by speedboat and where you will certainly see some crocodiles.
Indigenous villages: San Juan Chamula
In the area around San Cristóbal there are countless indigenous villages. I was in San Juan Chamula, which is half an hour by colectivo from San Cristóbal. At the markets around the village square you can find fresh fruit, homemade textiles, backpacks, jewellery and everything you can imagine. But the highlight of the village is the church. Benches and organs are not to be found here. There are pine needles on the floor for upholstery and the candles are simply stuck to the floor with their wax. There is a mystical atmosphere and it is hard to tell if there is a church service going on here or if the many people just came together by chance. A fluttering chicken next to us suddenly gets its neck twisted without warning while the woman holding it on her lap is saying a prayer.
Waterfall Misol-Ha and Agua Azúl
Between San Cristóbal de las casas and Palenque you will find the Misol-Ha waterfall, 30 metres high, and the famous Agua Azúl falls. Both can either be booked combined as a tour from San Cristóbal or Palenque or you can travel on your own by colectivo or car. The latter is a good option if you want to continue to the next city anyway.
Behind the water curtain of Misol-Ha there is a narrow path that you can walk along if you are not afraid of water. A great feeling and a welcome refreshment on hot days.
In the bright blue waterfalls of Agua Azúl you can have a great bath in some places. If you want to see the water in its most beautiful colours, it is best to be there in the travel season from January to April. In December, although actually already at the end of the rainy season, the water is unfortunately not quite as azúl as you know it from other pictures.
Lagunas de Montebello
The huge national park Lagunas de Montebello at the Guatemalan border, counts 59 lakes to its territory. There is a lot to explore on foot or by boat. For this route it is worth to rent a car. Alternatively you can visit the most beautiful places with an organized tour from San Cristóbal. However, I am not a big fan of these tours. You often don't have much time, can't explore any place on your own and usually pay automatically for an overpriced lunch in a tourist restaurant.
Palenque jungle fever
In and around Palenque, you can find some of the most exciting Mayan sites.The ruins of Palenque can be reached on foot from the city. You can either take a guide at the entrance or explore the pyramids on your own. The ruin guides are particularly intrusive, but it is possible to negotiate a good price. So if you are interested in a little history lesson, including an explanation of your personal zodiac sign, the investment is worthwhile.
In Palenque, we stayed in one of the coolest hotels during our trip. The Jungle Palace. You sleep in the middle of the jungle, either in a tree house or a wooden hut, between hundreds of monkeys. The ideal starting point to explore the rainforest and feel like Tarzan and Jane for a few hours.
Mayan sites Yaxchilán and Bonampak
Yaxchilán and Bonampak are two Mayan sites that are usually offered as a package tour from Palenque. If you are driving yourself, I would skip Bonampak, as it does not offer much, except a ruin with some colourful Mayan drawings. Yaxchilán on the other hand is a whole Mayan city, which is very well preserved and only accessible by boat. Also the Mayas could only leave it by water. You will cross the Usumacinta River, which separates Mexico on one side and Guatemala on the other.
Transportation within Chiapas
You can either rent a car yourself, which I would definitely recommend, or organize trips to the surroundings from San Cristóbal or Palenque. Even without a car most places are easy to reach by colectivo.
If you want to combine several places with each other and have only little time, an organized tour is also possible. In almost all hostels in Chiapas they are offered in different packages. They usually last the whole day, but you will get to see a lot in a very short time. To travel back and forth between the big cities like San Cristóbal, Palenque or Tuxtla, the big and comfortable ADO busses are worthwhile as always.
How much time do I need?
In ten to fourteen days it is quite possible to have seen the most important things of Chiapas. During this time you will not have to stress yourself and you will have the option of staying in one place for a longer period of time or discovering something off the mainstream routes.
Chiapas: best time to travel
The best time to travel in Chiapas is the European winter from December to May. Then the temperatures are pleasant, but usually below 30 degrees and the rainy season is over. In summer, many roads are flooded and impassable and especially Agua Azúl loses its beautiful blue color.
My route and hotels
San Cristóbal de las casas: Puerta Vieja Hostel
Palenque: Jungle Palace
